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In the 19th century, entrance to the Caves cost 5 rix
dollars – the modern equivalent of about R500.00 – but
that even didn’t deter them and many carted away parts
of the delicate stalactites and stalagmites for souvenirs
or engraved their names onto the walls. In response,
the governor of the Cape Colony, Lord Charles Somerset,
published the first Caves Regulation in 1820. The 1st
law designed to protect an environmental resource in
South Africa; it banned the collection of souvenirs,
proved for fines for anyone caught damaging Caves
formations and prescribed an entrance fee which had
to be paid to the District Officer – who was made
responsible for enforcing the rules.

Many of the most significant discoveries in the Caves
were made by its first full-time guide, Johnnie van
Wassenaar. – who served for 43 years: from 1891 until
his retirement in 1934. He opened many side chambers
and introduced thousands of people to Cango 1, which
remains the only part of the Caves which the public may
visit. Importantly, though, it is clear that the Caves
were known to man long before Europeans first landed at
the Cape: recent finds – of some tool left behind in ancient
hearths in the Cave mouth – prove that humans have lived and
sheltered here for at least 80 000 years.
The Cango Caves reveal their secrets painfully slowly.
Where once we thought that they’d been inhabited for a
thousand centuries, recent archaeological finds have now
proved that they’ve sheltered us for more than 80 000
years.
Where once we thought that they were only about one
kilometre in length, we now know that they extend for
well over 5 kilometres – and that they could be even
bigger still.
But the Caves’ history and their size are just two of their
many mysteries. The skeletons of three genets (small cats)
have been found in Cango 2: is there another secret entrance
to the Caves? Or were these unfortunates drowned and left
behind by receding floodwaters? And how did the skeletons
of bats – which have also been found in Cango 2 – become
enclosed in calcite many hundreds of even thousands of
years ago?

There is an ancient engraving in the Caves: it’s the only
piece of cave art in South Africa in a completely dark area.
How did the artist prove himself with a light source to
work? The engraving shows and elephant superimposed on
an eland – and yet, amazingly, you see only the elephant
when you view the work from one side – and only the eland
when you view it from the other.
Why have so many Caves guides committed suicide? And is there
a ghost in the Sand bypass
(a tunnel which branches off from the Drum Chamber)? One
of the guides drank
poison in the bypass – and nobody has ever been able to
solve the puzzle of why the lights in the Sand Bypass
fuse so often…
And then there’s the mystery of Johnnie van Wassenaar’s
16-mile tunnel. This level-headed man once spent 29 hours
underground – and, according to him, spent much of that
time walking upright. Was the entrance to Johnnie’s lost
chamber bricked up at some stage – perhaps during the
construction of the stairway into the Van Zyl’s Hall?

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